国产大模型的深度思考是表明它们能理解问题吗

寂静回声

现在中外大模型都号称自己有推理、深度思考能力，但是事实真的是这样吗？

音频测试机，隔音层做法，求教
http://www.cmiw.cn/thread-358887-1-1.html
豆包大模型的回答


从下面按钮看，已经启动了深度思考了。
这个回答合适吗？显然是不合适，从原帖上看，八爷直接就指出了原帖所缺失的知识点。
首先，要分频处理，把要处理的那个频谱找到，每一种频谱对应一种隔音材料，不是随便怎么用都可以。

把八爷的观点扔给豆包大模型，豆包大模型立刻就改口了。
但这里面立马出现了一个bug，难道之前豆包大模型没有深度思考吗？这就是它深度思考的结果吗？完全看不出原提前问的重大缺陷。
八爷能提出能发现这个提问的重大缺陷，是因为他深刻的理解了这个问题，所以这个bug就是大模型有没有理解力，它没有深刻理解力的时候，它的深度思考是个什么东西呢？
或者说反过来，让求助者去询问豆包大模型，但是他自己又不懂，他也许会直接使用豆包大模型的第1次回答，因为他不可能针对频谱问出第2个问题，因为他根本就不懂。
这就像我那天查询的辐射阻尼一样，几乎所有大模型一致的认为，辐射阻尼是指电磁波相关的巴拉巴拉知识，没人说那是与机械振动相关的。
不懂的，肯定认为肯定相信了大模型，因为几乎所有大模型都这么回答的。那什么叫信息茧房，这就是信息茧房。
现在的信息茧房比以前更严重，以前在搜索的时候可以通过多个信源的交叉验证，现在很多人直接就相信大模型，大模型说什么就是什么，不可能同时使用两个大模型。哪怕他同时使用两个大模型，两个大模型答案一模一样，这时候他怎么办？

这不光是豆包大模型一家的问题，千问大模型也是名义上深度思考，但并没有真正的深刻理解，而且答的更简单。

Nice — good problem. Below I’ll give a short recommendation up front, then two practical build options (thin constrained design vs. thicker sandwich), materials/fastening details, door sealing tips, and a short step-by-step for each approach so you can build it without much guesswork.
# Quick recommendation
If **thickness is limited**, go with **sheet metal + constrained-layer damping + mass-loaded vinyl (MLV) + thin absorptive foam**.
If you can spare more depth (≥40–50 mm), a **decoupled sandwich** (outer metal → thin air gap or damping layer → plywood/board → inner metal) with insulation inside will perform better overall, but it’s thicker and heavier.
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# Acoustic principles to keep in mind (short)
* **Mass law:** more mass → better low-frequency reduction.
* **Damping/constrained layer:** prevents the metal panel from vibrating and re-radiating sound.
* **Decoupling:** separating layers reduces vibration transfer.
* **Absorption:** porous absorbers (mineral wool, open cell foam) reduce reverberation/inside standing waves — they don’t add much low-frequency blocking but help mid/high.
* **Sealing:** small gaps defeat performance — seal seams & door perimeter with acoustic sealant or gasketing.
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# Option A — Thin / size-constrained (recommended for your case)
Best when you can’t be thick. Layer suggestion (outside → inside):
1. Outer sheet metal (your enclosure)
2. **Damping sheet** (butyl/damping mat glued to inner face of metal)
3. **Mass-Loaded Vinyl (MLV)** (thin heavy sheet — adds mass without big thickness)
4. **Thin absorptive layer** (10–25 mm open-cell acoustic foam or 10–30 mm polyester)
5. Seal all seams with acoustic caulk and gasket the door.
Why: damping kills panel resonance, MLV gives mass for low frequencies, and thin foam cleans up mids/highs — all in a small profile.
Materials & parts
* Damping sheet: butyl/viscoelastic sheets (1–2 mm) or peel-and-stick damping mats.
* MLV: ~2–4 mm (typical rolls are 1/8" but there are thinner/heavier options).
* Foam: 10–25 mm acoustic foam or thin melamine/pet polyester panels.
* Acoustic sealant (acoustic caulk), neoprene gasketing tape for door.
* Mechanical fix: contact adhesive for MLV (or self-adhesive MLV), and screws with **neoprene washers** if you need to screw through into metal.
How to assemble (step-by-step)
1. Clean inner metal surface thoroughly (degrease).
2. Apply damping sheet over the largest, flattest metal panels (roll & press firmly; cover as much area as practical).
3. Apply MLV: either stick self-adhesive MLV to the damped metal or use contact adhesive. Overlap seams 50 mm and seal overlaps with butyl tape. If mechanical fasteners are used, use washers and screw heads tight enough but not crushing the MLV.
4. Attach thin absorptive foam to the MLV (spray/contact adhesive or foam tape). Foam needn’t be continuous — staggered panels are fine so long as the door area has full coverage.
5. Seal edges and panel joins with acoustic caulk. Fit a closed-cell foam or neoprene compression gasket around the door frame; use perimeter compression to get a good seal.
Pros: thin, effective for mid/high, decent low-frequency for a small enclosure.
Cons: low-frequency blocking is still limited compared with big mass/air gaps.
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# Option B — Thicker sandwich (best performance if depth available)
Layer example (outside → inside):
outer metal shell → thin damping layer → thin plywood (3–6 mm) mechanically decoupled on resilient mounts or neoprene strips → cavity filled with mineral wool or glass wool → inner metal or inner plywood.
Why: adds mass + decoupling + absorption. Good across low→high frequencies if done right.
How to connect layers
* Use **mechanical fasteners** (screws/rivets) through resilient pads or **resilient channels** so inner board is decoupled from outer metal.
* Use **butyl or viscoelastic layer** between metal and plywood as a constrained-layer damper where space allows.
* Seal seams with acoustic caulk.
Assembly notes
1. Attach damping sheet to metal inner face.
2. Mount thin plywood to the damping layer using screws with neoprene washers; if you want decoupling, use short rubber isolation pads or a narrow resilient strip between metal and plywood and screw through it (this raises the plywood slightly creating a small air gap).
3. Fill cavity with mineral wool (30–50 mm typical for good mid/high absorption).
4. Fit inner panel (metal or plywood) — if inner metal, also put damping on it. Seal everything.
Pros: better broadband sound control including lower frequencies.
Cons: thicker and heavier.

Gpt-5也是这么一刀切回答的，只不过是回答的信息量更大，比国产大模型更周全，偶尔能提到频谱.
这也是为什么我采用复制粘贴其回答，而不是截图的缘故。